In the end
I decided on a fitted back and a flexible, drawstring front. I had wanted fuller and longer sleeves, and a longer skirt, but
even with piecing this is all I got out of it – I didn’t feel quite as
ambitious when it came to piecing as I did last year with the mid 19th century dress. Still, I think it looks rather nice.
I was going
for a lower middle class everyday look, the kind of clothes you might wear
while cooking, tending to the children, sorting laundry before sending it of
and such, so nothing too fancy.
I drafted and adjusted the pattern myself, and the shortgown is entirely hand sewn with period stitches. Linen thread is used, unbleached for the inside, brown for visible stitching. There are a few pleats at the front to allow extra fullness over the bust without adding bulk to the skirt.
The bodice is lined in the back with plain cotton, and has a
loose lining in front which closes by pins.
The sleeves have cuffs that closes with sewn loops and self fabric covered
plastic buttons – not period but it’s what I had at home and it will never
show. I covered the buttons like this, as described in “Kvinnligt Mode under
Två Sekel” (Female Fashion during Two Centuries) by Britta Hammar and Pernilla
Rasmussen. All the stitching was also taken from their descriptions of extant
clothing.
Wrap the button in fabric.
Cut off excess, but leave a shank.
Stitch to sleeve.
Wrap the thread around a few times and secure. Make the loop for closing.
Flounces, that is seen in many extant garments from this time, finish the sleeves. This kind of sleeve treatment, with the closed flounce and an opening just by the cuff, is seen in two extant dresses at Kulturen in Lund, Sweden. The sleeves have short, less full under sleeves from the lining fabric.
The skirt
is sewn smoothly at the front and sides, and is cartridge pleated to the back,
as most extant lower class dresses in Sweden. Unfortunately there are no
surviving shortgowns here that I know of.
All in all
I’m pleased with how it turned out (though it makes me look huge at the
moment [EDIT: pictures of it when I'm not pregnant]), but next time I will make the armholes even deeper in the back, push
back the shoulder seem a bit more, and have more material to work with. Also, I
intend to wear this over stays, but at the moment mine don’t fit, and who knows
if I’ll get the maternity ones finished before they’re of no use… As a result
the shortgown doesn’t sit as well as it should at the moment as the pinned lining does all the supporting.
The Challenge: #3 Pink
Fabric: Cotton print, plain cotton for the lining
Pattern: Drafted my own from pictures and patterns taken from extant examples
Year: Ca. 1810
Notions: Linen thread, cotton tape, plastic (!) buttons
How historically accurate is it? Pretty much; it’s constructed like period
examples, hand stitched with period stitches, using period correct materials
for the most part.
Hours to complete: Not sure… for such a simple garment it took
quite a bit of time: I was quite sick of it in the end. I’ve worked on it
between two and four hours most days during the past week, but then I’ve also
had “help” from my toddler most of that time.
First worn: For the pictures
Total cost: Nothing at this time, everything came from my
stash.
