Sunday 24 February 2013

Folk Costume Bosom Cloth

For the Historical Sew Fortnightly’s fourth challenge, embellishment, I decided to make a new bosom cloth (bröstduk or bröstlapp) for my folk costume, from Oxie in Scania (Skåne), Sweden. Since pregnancy and nursing has changed my figure, I really need one to keep me safely inside my very low necked bodice, even with several layers worn under it. There’s a mental picture for you. I suppose I could use a new bodice, but I don’t have money to buy the silk for one at this time. This will do for now, unless I decide to make a wool bodice... that’d only require a very little silk for trim.

 Excuse the wrinkled skirt and apron - the whole outfit
 has been packed away in a box since we moved last August.

Even when making the old bosom cloth it felt wrong, as it was not from my parish. At the time I didn’t know what they were supposed to look like where I’m from, but since then I’ve become a very little bit wiser. Just a little though; there are very few images of them, regrettably. What they seem to have in common though, is horizontal strips of silk, gold or silver ribbons, and gold or silver lace. It seems small scraps were used, and piecing are more rule than exception. Often the strips don’t go all the way to the edge, but only just cover what will be seen, if that. As for colours, I have no idea. I improvised as best I could, and if I learn I didn’t do it right, I’ll have to make yet another one in future. But that is part of the deal when making historical clothes, when you learn more, you often find what you believed before was wrong, or only part of the truth.

The base for my bosom cloth is made from several layers of newspaper pages, glued together with home boiled flour glue (one part flour, three parts water, boil until it becomes a thick fluid). It is cut to a half circle shape, and covered in front by black broadcloth, and in back by unbleached linen, both of which I stitched in place through the paper, so they would keep still. 

As I can’t afford silver or gold ribbons or -lace, I kept my decorations simple, using what I had at home. After plying with my scraps, I ended up liking this best: a green, pleated silk strip at the top, and three strips (yellow brocade, burgundy red and the same green) stitched to the wool. A strip of brown cotton is used for binding. The yellow silk is pieced in two places, and the green silk, left over from the pleating, is centred; though short, it’s long enough that the black wool won’t show when worn.

It is worn tucked between the shirt or, like here, the knitted spedetröja, and the silk bodice, and should be kept in place without fastening. I’m thinking of maybe cheating, and sew one hook and sewn bar to each top side to prevent it slipping, but don’t tell anyone. I used pins to hold it in place for the pictures, and that worked too, and might even be period. I like how the bosom cloth looks, very neat, everything staying where it should be. In all, I think I look very proper. Still need to make a new bodice though.

The Challenge: #4 Embellishment
Broadcloth, linen, silks, cotton.
None, I used what information I could find on museum databases, and made it to fit the neckline of my folk costume bodice.
First half to mid 19th century.
blue and unbleached linen thread.
How historically accurate is it?
Tolerably; it’s in the spirit of the few originals I’ve seen, all materials are period, and all seams are made with period stitches.
Hours to complete:
Maybe five.
First worn:
For the pictures. Hopefully I’ll get to wear it for Midsummer.
Total cost:
All materials were in my stash, so none at this time, including the small amount of flour used for glue.

Wednesday 20 February 2013

American Duchess Gibson Giveaway

American Duchess is hosting a giveaway of one pair of her new Edwardian shoes. I don't often share things like this, but the tiny chance to win these shoes, that I really love, is too good not to try it.

Such pretty shoes....

Thursday 7 February 2013

Regency Shift

I decided to make a Regency shift for the third challenge of the Historical Sew Fortnightly – I have the stays, I really should have a shift. 

Ehm... I'm not pregnant, the linen is just very crisp...
I cut the fabric out on Monday evening last week, and by lunch today, it was finished. It doesn’t show in the picture, but the shift ends just below the knees; I’d like my next shift to be a bit longer, but I tried to save as much fabric as possible, as I have plans for what’s left of it.

The shift is made from two squares, two gores (each made from two halves, to make the best use of the fabric), and three rectangles. They are sewn together using running stitches and a back stitch every few stitches. The seams are felled and stitched down to one side. 

A drawstring made from thick, braided linen thread is encased in the hem of the neckline, tying on the inside front.

The Challenge: #3 Under it All
Fabric: Fine, crisp, bleached linen.
Pattern: None: I used square construction made to my measurements.
Year: Early 19th century.
Notions: Medium thick cotton thread for sewing, thick linen thread, braided to make the drawstring.
How historically accurate is it? Pretty much: the construction is period, as is the material. It’s all hand sewn, with felled seams. The braided drawstring is not ideal perhaps, but plausible.
Hours to complete: Not sure…. A couple of hours a night, so maybe 15-20 hours?
First worn: For the pictures.
Total cost: None at this time, as I had all materials in my stash. I don’t remember what I originally paid for them.

So far I’ve only made underwear for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, but that will change: the item I'll make for the next challenge will be seen when fully dressed.