A 14th Century Buttoned Cote

A few weeks ago I finished Tobias’ new cote. It’s made from a soft green wool fabric, and has 34 buttons down the front and 13 on each sleeve. That makes 60 hand made cloth buttons and hand stitched buttonholes in total. 
 

The cote is made to be worn as outerwear, so it’s a bit longer, and wider in the body and sleeves than his other one, but the look is rather fashionable for the late 14^th or early 15th century. I placed the buttons tight over the chest and more spaced from the waist down, as in this one from about 1360.

Walter de Heylon, died 1357 or so.

The most interesting feature of this garment is the tablet woven edges on the sleeves. I’ve been planning to tablet weave on clothing for a couple of years, but never got round to do more than a trial run until now. I used two tablets with all holes threaded, so a total of eight one ply wool threads. I don't recomend that; the weft tread kept breaking, which was very annoying.

In the end it turned out very nice indeed and was quite easy (apart from the breaking thread issue). I can’t believe I’ve not tried it before this. Well, actually I can: it’s down to the two facts that it’s a bit of a hassle setting up the warp and that “everyone” is putting tablet woven edges on “everything”. It’s beginning to feel like a reenactorism. At least there is plenty of evidence for woven edges next to sleeves’ buttonholes, so I don’t feel bad about that.

Don’t have much to add on this one. It’s hand sewn with unbleached linen thread, as most of our other medieval clothes. It’s one of those projects that caused some problems along the way (the sleeves just wouldn’t do what I wanted them to) but turns out acceptable in the end. It will do very well for cold weather wear.

I’m working on some body linens for a friends son (they will go in the HSF “white” challenge), but apart from that I’m taking a break from historic sewing. I have been feeling stretched thin by too many things to do; giving my family and home enough attention, a school paper, wanting to do something about my woefully neglected modern wardrobe, all the period clothes I wanted to make and all the events I wanted to attend, my other (a beginner’s guide to the Middle Ages) blog that needs a lot of research and work. I had to drop something. At the moment I try to dedicate my mornings to school (Tobias is on paternity leave all summer and takes care of B), my afternoons to my family and some modern sewing, and my evenings to my husband, modern sewing or occasional blogging. I have several future historic projects planned, but for the time being they will have to wait. It’s time to get my priorities right.

Anyway. Though it’s finished a bit early I thought I’d enter this to one of the HSF challenges.

The Challenge: # 16 Separates

Fabric: Wool, and linen for the facings.

Pattern: Made my own.

Year: Late 14^th century.

Notions: Linen thread.

How historically accurate is it? Tolerably. It looks sort of right, and it’s made using period cutting and sewing techniques.

Hours to complete: No idea.

First worn: For the event two weeks ago.

Total cost: Not sure, the fabric’s been in my stash for a couple of years.

Tablet Woven 14th Century Belt

For the seventh challenge of the HSF I decided to make a new 14^th century belt. I have wanted a cloth belt for some time, and bought a small buckle for it almost two years ago. Last week I read about a black belt, and saw the tablet woven belts in Textiles and Clothing, and finally it clicked. I wanted a black, tablet woven wool belt. 

 After weaving for a few centimetres I split the warp in two, and wove each one 

separately for a little bit: this hole is where the pin in the buckle goes through. 

I don’t know if this is period, but I think it’s plausible, and it looks nice.

I wanted to use materials I already had, and I didn’t want a true black belt, but rather a naturally black one, like you’d get from using wool from a black sheep. Luckily I had very dark grey knitting wool, but it was a little thicker than I wanted it. After warping half the number of threads needed, I had to split every thread in two for it to work. 

Even simple tools can get the job done: my tablets are made 

from cardboard, and the warp is attached to a belt at my waist on one end, 

and at the other to any convenient spot where I happen to be 

(like my big toe, the head rest of a car when traveling, or the drawer of my desk). 

Threading and weaving was a straight forward enough business: twelve tablets, all four holes threaded. I started warping on Monday evening, and on Friday evening I was done weaving. The belt is a little thinner than I’d have wished: I wanted it eleven millimetres wide, but it turned out only nine millimetres, a little too small for most strap ends on the market. I thought I could have used a couple of more tablets even when warping, but I was too lazy to look for the missing ones, or make new ones, so it’s my own fault. Never mind: I like it anyway, simple as it is.

The Challenge: #7 Accessorise

Fabric: Wool 4 ply (fingering) knitting yarn.
Pattern: None, though leaning on what information can be found in Textiles and Clothing.
Year: Late 14^th century.
Notions: None
How historically accurate is it? Pretty much I think: tablet woven wool belts did exist, and the buckle is a reproduction.
Hours to complete: Maybe seven or eight.
First worn: For the picture.
Total cost: None at this time as I have had all the materials for some time. 

Now I need to find a strap end I like of the right width, which might prove a challenge in itself.

Blog Award and a Surprise Gift

A couple of days ago I received the Very Inspiring Blogger Award – thank you The Choll! 

The description of my blog made me vary happy, so I’ll copy it here: Sarah in Sweden is amazing! She weaves, sews, embroiders and just to give me an even worse inferiority complex, recently started another blog (in Swedish) to assist Medieval Reenactors with historical accuracy. Praise indeed – I’m not sure I quite deserve it, but as, to quote Jane Austen “nobody minds having what is too good for them”, I will bear it cheerfully. Though being one of 15 recipients lessens the quality of the award somewhat; it gives it the air of a chain letter.

Ah well. In accepting the award, I have to tell you all seven random things about myself. Hmm…

- I dislike the sounds of other people eating. It’s a family trait; my father, one sister and one brother are like me. When all of us are at the same dinner table woe befalls the poor person who don’t have the sense and manners to eat with his mouth closed. I try hard to raise my level of tolerance, with varying results.

- I don’t like wearing trousers. I usually find them uncomfortable, and finding any that fits my curvy figure is nearly impossible. The days I wear trousers each year can be numbered on one hand.

- I like too many things: reading, sewing, weaving, knitting, scrapbooking, baking, writing etc. There’s much I would like to do, and less time to do it in. The result: many UFO’s and too many possessions, mostly books and textile related things. A library and a sewing room is on my wish list for a future home.

You've all seen my textile projects, but not much of my baking: 

this is a cake I made yesterday. My first try at making marsipan figures.

- I’ve always wanted to be a Mum, even as a child. When all the other children answered “pop star”, “fire fighter”, “actor”, “police” and “nurse” to the question of what we wanted to be as we grew up, I always said “a mother”. I guess I never was very ambitious when it came to a career, but love my present life as a stay at home Mum.

- I love solitude. I don’t dislike company, but a little goes a long way. Some people gain energy by socializing, others have their energy drained by it. I belong to the latter category, and I suppose that is one important reason for me preferring the life of a stay at home Mum to that of a career woman. (Besides, if I bring children into the world, I want to be the one to bring them up to live in it.)

- I never was a very good student. Everyone has always supposed I was a Hermione Granger kind of person, but the whole hand-these-essays-in-by-this-date-thing never suited me. I like to learn, but I don’t work well under pressure.

- I often choose to do things by hand, rather than by machine (like whipping cream, mixing dough and sewing), as I prefer not listening to loud noises. I am however not a complete enemy to technology: I consider the washing machine one of the greater blessings of the 20^th century, and am very happy to have a dishwasher. That I like the internet is obvious.

Now, I was supposed to pass this on to 15 other bloggers, but I can’t think of that many that truly inspire me, which have not already received it. I could think of nine blogs I want to pass this on to, and they are, alphabetically:

Battle ofWisby 1361-2013 – Ida (former of Idas Hantverk) is now hosting the official blog of Battle of Wisby 1361-2013, a large upcoming 14^th century re-enactment here in Sweden. Ida is very talented in several crafts, and also reports on living history outings, and preparations for the upcoming event.

Creating This and That – My Mum, Monica, who’s an avid scrapbooker. I love scrapbooking, but don’t have much time for it with all the other things I want to do, so for now, I sort of live on what she makes.

Deventer Burgerscap – The blog of a Dutch 14^th century living history group. A lovely mix of events, projects and original items.

Historisk Dräkt och Hantverk – My friend Mikael’s blog, a fellow member of Albrechts Bössor. One of the most talented costumers I know, interested in several periods.

In deme jare Cristi – My friends and also fellow members of Albrechts Bössor Peter and Maria blog about projects (Maria is amazing at most textile crafts), outings and 14^th century subjects in general.

Kurage – Yet another friend and member of Albrechts Bössor, Anders, is also into 18^th and 19^th century living history. Good crafter and entertaining writer.

MedievalSilkwork – Talented ladies do research, write about and recreate medieval textiles. If you’re interested in 14^th century living history, this is a must have in your reading list.

Neulakko – Elina is a 14^th century living historian in Finland, and her clothing is always well made and researched, and her instructional videos on nalbinding are great.

SwedishHousewife Mafia - My sister Linda’s blog (in Swedish only). She’s a stay at home Mum, creative and full of energy. Though having different interests from me, I admire her ability to keep so many projects going at the same time.  

In other news; after posting about my improvised rigid heddle, I received a real one as a surprise gift from Vix! Pretty, isn’t it?

Happy dance!!!

Swedish 19th Century Country Toddler's Cap and Apron

For the sixth HSF challenge I made a cap and an apron for a small country boy in 19^th century Sweden. After swaddling (still very much in use amongst country people in Sweden at this time) was over, boys and girls were dressed in long gowns, called kolt in Swedish. To this day toddlers are still called “koltbarn” (barn = child) sometimes. I used little B’s 14^th century cotte from last year, which still fits well enough, though a tad short. The kolt was worn with a cap tied under the chin (the same kind of cap that had been worn from birth) and an apron. 

These three dress elements were used by both boys and girls, but the construction was different. Girls koltar had a gathered skirt sewn to a bodice, a cap constructed from one piece reaching from forehead to nape of neck, and two sidepieces, and an apron tied at the waist, like their mothers'. Boys koltar on the other hand were cut in one from the shoulders, their caps were constructed from 4-6 gussets, and their aprons had bibs. To most people today they’d all look like little girls, but a person of that time and place could tell one from the other at a glance.

Girl's silk Christening cap, made from one 

middle piece, and two side pieces, c. 1810-1830.

Boy's silk Christening cap, made from five gussets, c. 1810-1830. 

It matches the girl's cap above - where they made before baby was born, or for twins?

 Boy's silk Christening cap, made from six gussets, c. 1800-1840.

Not much is known about everyday clothing of these children – the few surviving garments are all for festive occasions, and most are from the county Dalarna (Dalecarlia), as the people there kept their traditional way of dress longer than most others in Sweden. This means you have to think one extra time - is this typical of children in Sweden, or typical of children of Dalarna? Most extant caps are christening caps, and as such, are made from the most expensive materials the families could afford. I, who wanted a simpler outfit for my little lad, had to guess what to use.

For the cap I used cotton scraps I had in my stash. Seeing more than one fabric in these caps is very common, so I decided to do that. One is a sort of plaid, the other striped (scraps from making a baby wrap, that have seen much use, first with my youngest brother, and then with little B), the lining is a striped, much worn kitchen towel. I decided to put a stitched down tuck over each ear, for better fitting: I don’t know if it’s period, but it looks all right. The cap is bound with cotton tape from my stash, and the ties are made from the same.

The apron is made from an old pillowcase with woven in stripes (as stripes were so typical in aprons among the commoners here in the 19^th century) that I bought at a charity shop. The ribbon used for ties is woven for the purpose – I had the yarn at home. 

I have a loom for weaving ribbons, but it’s in storage, and how I miss it! For making the ribbon I had to figure out something else. I decided to make a rigid heddle. I want a real wooden one, but that’s not a priority at this time, so I had to make do with an improvised one, made from a milk carton and a couple of pencils. 

It worked tolerably well, except that the pencils kept escaping. Now that I’ve used one (poorly constructed though it was) I really want a real one! It was such a pleasure to work with.

 

The skirt part of the apron is pleated to the waistband, and the bib sewn in flat. A loop around the neck holds it in place, just like in originals. 

The Challenge: #6 Stripes

Pattern: None, draped my own.

Year: About mid 19^th century. If made from wool, they could be earlier.

Notions: Waxed linen thread, cotton/linen yarn for weaving, cotton tape.

How historically accurate is it? Tolerably, though I had to guess a whole lot. At least it’s hand sewn with period stitches.

Hours to complete: Good question…maybe 10 hours total, including the weaving.

First worn: The apron has been worn several times when B has been helping me baking, the cap was first worn for the pictures.

Total cost: 10 SEK ($1,5, £1, €1,2) for the apron fabric, the rest was scraps from my stash, including the cotton tape.

 And all that work just so that I can have a companion when being photographed in my common women’s dress for challenge 10....