Sewing with Babies - a Blog Award

I know a lot (most?) of you who read my blog, or whose blogs I read, sew. I also know that many have little children. Being able to find time and energy to pursue ones interest in sewing, while caring for the physical and emotional needs of ones children, is not always easy. Lately I’ve found it increasingly difficult, and sometimes frustrating. To encourage all of you out there who, like me, try to find time, but also try not to feel like failures, nor get upset when not succeeding, here is a blog award just for you!

You all know how this usually works:

- Post the text below, describing the award (you are of course welcome to use either of the images in this post on your own blog)

- Link back to the person who gave you the award.

- Describe what you do to make sewing possible, and still have a happy and content baby.

- Pass on the award to three (or more) sewing and blogging mothers of small children.

Recognizing mothers who try (and now and then fail) to find time to create something beautiful and/or useful with needle and thread, between feedings, nappy changes, laundry, nursery rhymes, and baby kisses.

The ones I want to have this award are:

My Mum, Monica, of Creating This and That. Though no longer having any small children (my youngest brother is eight years old) she’s had eight little ones, and always prioritized our needs before her wishes (be they scrapbooking or sewing). No, I do not deny that having a little time to do what you enjoy now and then is a necessity – but it’s all about balancing whose need is the greatest at any given time. She’s my role model when it comes to being a mother, and a woman and wife too.

Sarah Jane of Romantic History, as she’s been my hero in this particular area for years. Even before I had my baby I was amazed at how many beautiful clothes she managed to produce with three small boys running around the house.

Fellow 14th century reenactor Petra of Drömmen om det Medeltida Livet. The Middle Ages means no machine sewing, so she’s got her work cut out for her, with a little baby wanting her attention.

Amy of ADay in 1862. She creates beautiful 1860’s clothes (and shoes) for her little girl.

I hope you will like my little award (a small award from a small blog), and will pass it forward. We all need a pat on the back now and again!

The Return of the Livkjol

Autumn is upon us, and warmer clothing is required. As some of you long time readers might know, I love folk costumes in general, and the ones from my place of birth in particular. Now, I like when you can take an element from period clothing and bring it into ones 21^st century wardrobe. I decided to try and see if a livkjol can work today. The livkjol is the main piece of clothing for many country women in Sweden up till the mid 19^th century, even longer in some places. It varied a lot in appearance depending on where you lived, always consisting of a bodice with an attached skirt (liv = bodice, kjol = skirt). In the spirit of true local patriotism, I chose to base mine of off the ones close to home. Well, where I lived as a child anyway.

In that part of the country, the west of Skåne (Scania), the bodice and skirt of the livkjol were made from different fabrics, the skirt usually wool, the quality depending on wealth and occasion. The bodices were wool for everyday, and might be for nicer clothes as well, but those who could afford it had bodices in silk, preferably brocade. The bodices on fancier livkjolar were often trimmed with strips of silk in a solid colour. The bodices were closed in front by hooks and eyes, or a chain and buckles in silver or a lesser metal, or simply left open. The skirt was also opened in front, but as most of it was covered by an apron, it didn’t show. All these variations were often dependant on where you lived - a few miles might often make changes in cut and style. You can see a variety of livkjolar from Skåne here.

Now, I wanted a dress that would not be a costume, or a period correct piece of clothing, but a garment that could work today, inspired by a period (and very local) style. Not modern by any means, but not too odd. Silk were out of the question (I have a baby after all), as were too bright colours. I also had to use what was already in my stash. I ended up making a dark brown bodice, trimmed with black strips, and a dark green skirt, all in wool blends.

The bodice is cut in one, and gets some extra shaping from two darts in the front. Darts began coming into use in livkjolar in the mid 19^th century, inspired by the current fashion. This picture shows two young girls from the 1870’s in darted livkjolar over knitted sweaters, spedetröjor. Adorable aren’t they? It closes with hooks and eyes. It's is lined with a simple cotton fabric, but back in the day, linen would have been far more common.

The shape of the trim (especially in the back) is typical of some areas in Skåne, and can be seen on the country woman on the left in this picture, Marknad i Lund (Market in Lund) from 1858. It’s made of strips cut on the straight grain, shaped around the curved edges with little stitched down tucks.

The skirt is flat in front (as is often the case in originals), and then pleated with double knife pleats, though I think single ones were more common. I didn’t want a front opening as I won’t wear an apron to cover it, so I made some sort of version of a dogleg closure. While the bodice opens at centre front, the skirt opens under the first pleat to the left, almost invisible. It has a facing in mud coloured cotton at the hem. The skirt is a bit shorter than originals, but I think it works for modern wear.

The greatest deviation I’ll be making is in what I’ll be wearing with the livkjol. It would have been worn over white linen shifts and dark knitted spedetröjor, but I’ll wear it with a bit more modern (mostly store bought) blouses, shirts and sweaters. I did end up having to make the blouse I’m wearing in the pictures, when I remembered that all my pre-pregnancy ones are too small, and will be as long as I nurse. I really tried to sew it using modern techniques, but I have forgotten many of them, and automatically start using period ones…. 

Occupational hazard? 

Medieval Towel

I once said that you can never have too many towels, and so, I’ve made another one. A nice little project when there’s been no time or energy to work on something more complicated.

There are quite a few pictures and extant examples of linen towels with indigo blue borders woven in, from the 14^th century forwards. As you see from the examples below, they were beautiful things, often with intricate patterns. 

 Perugian towel, 15th century. Victoria and Albert Museum.

From the very little reading I’ve done on them, they originated in Egypt, and then Italian weavers (primarily in Perugia) took it up, changing the patterns to fit European and Christian taste better. You can buy reproductions, but we don’t have the funds for that, and we certainly don’t portray a family who’d be able to afford an imported luxury item like that back then either.

They seem to often have been used as napkins, worn by servants when waiting at table, and attending at births. To find links to more pictures, go here.

 The Luttrell Family at Dinner, c. 1325-35

The Birth of the Virgin, Giovanni da Milano, 1365.

(Isn't the lady on the left wearing the most beautiful dress?)

 

 The Gent Altarpiece; Niche with Wash Basin, Jan van Eyck, 1432. 

This one looks almost as simple as mine.

This one is the budget option. I imagine that, perhaps, someone who’d seen the fancy ones might have woven a simpler kind on the blue striped theme. I made it from an old linen kitchen towel with a herringbone weave. A diamond twill seam to have been the most common weave used in towels, but herringbone did also exist. Mine is clearly much shorter than the ones in the paintings, and to be honest, I don't know if this kind of towels ever came this far north. Trade was extensive though, so it's not impossible. Edit: I've read today (27 August 2013) that the inventory of Håkan, a Swedish priest just taking over a parsonage in 1310, mentions two fine, blue striped towels - I have documentation :) End of edit.

I cut away the blue stripes going lengthways, and hemmed the towel – I also hemmed the short sides anew, as they were stitched on machine before.

We now have a fancy towel for nicer occasions.

 The strips I cut away will be saved to someday end up in a quilt. 

Waste not, want not :)

Nalbound Winter Bonnet

Sometimes this blog is quiet for weeks on end, and then there are two posts in as many days….

I generally like having something on my head (which in many living history situations is lucky), but there is one thing I’ve never found neither comfortable nor attractive on me; the common knitted winter cap. I think they mess up the hair something terrible (I have very fine, silky hair, which is especially unmanageable during the winter), and, since I wear my hair up most of the time, it looks plain ridiculous with a modern cap over it. I had planned to make a winter cap of my own for years, with my usual hairstyles taken into consideration, but never got round to it. But now, over the past month or so, I have made one! I finished it last week, it’s been the project I’ve been working on while putting B to bed.

It’s nalbound from the same wool yarn as Tobias’ socks, no idea what the stitch is called. I had an idea to make it in a shape similar to that of a Regency bonnet, as they were made to fit over hair worn in buns, and frame the face nicely. Not sure how well I did on the bonnet shape, but I’m pretty pleased all the same. 

The bonnet has nalbound scallops round the edges, and is further decorated with embroidery in wool yarn, resembling a fantasy version of fir and berries. A little on the Mrs. Santa side perhaps, but I like it.

The bonnet can also be worn with the brim turned back; I’m not altogether certain which look I prefer yet. 

What do you think?

A Nursing Friendly Dress

In my last post I wrote about some pillow cases I’d finished as part of my “forbidden to start any new projects until we’ve moved” deal with Tobias. Another thing that was awaiting completion was a dress begun this past spring. I wanted a pretty dress, fit for church, which it would be possible for me to nurse in, without it being too obvious it was a nursing dress. If I could still wear it after B is weaned that would be nice. I had seen a very pretty dress worn by Sophia Myles in an episode of Foyle’s War some years ago, and was reminded by it when I bought the first three series. I decided to try and make something similar.

I had stumbled on very good priced semi sheer cotton during the winter, and decided it would do for this project. I draped the bodice, sewed it, and left it. Now I took it out again, drafted the skirt and sleeves, and rather quickly finished it. I also made a rose from the dress fabric and a piece of velvet ribbon to wear in my hair.  

The dress is closed by a zipper in the left side, but the gathered bodice front opens, as you see, with self fabric ties. This makes it quite easy to gain access for nursing, and also makes it a bit adjustable in size for when I’m no longer nursing. 

The dress has wider ties that make a bow at the waist back, to give some visual interest. The skirt is slightly flared, and ends mid calf.

The sleeves are gathered at the shoulder, and have six small, stitched down tucks taking in the width at the cuff. 

This dress turned out entirely hand stitched, first since I did a lot of sewing when B was sleeping in my lap as a teensy weensy baby, and then, when I took it out again, my sewing machine was not easily accessible in the mess and confusion of boxes.

Unfortunately I’ve had to use the self timer on the camera, and after wearing the dress for hours, so the pictures aren’t all too good. Also, I’m afraid the nursing bras I have don’t give enough support to make a pretty silhouette. Ah well, I’ll have to live with that until I make one myself, or stop nursing.

Pillow Cases and Cushion Covers

Two and a half weeks ago we moved to a new city, and though not completely unpacked yet, we’re feeling at home. My fabrics, thread, pins, needles and other equipment are slowly being excavated from the mountain of boxes, so hopefully I’ll be sewing again soon. In the meantime I’m working on a needlebound project that I’ll show you at some future date.

In the month or two before moving Tobias came up with the idea that I shouldn’t start any new projects until after moving, and considering how many unfinished projects I have lying around, I thought it a good idea. It was funny to see how close to finished some of these projects were, I seem to have lost interest (or been distracted by something else) just hours before I had completed projects. Hmm.

One of the projects I now finished was stitching lace to a pillow case sewn years and years ago. I already had one finished, as they were intended to be a pair, but I got fed up with attaching lace, and used the case I’d finished, putting the other one from my mind.

 Now I have two, but as the one that was finished had been bleached with use, I packed it away with the things to be in storage until we move again. Hopefully the new one will be bleached to a similar shade by then.

I had made another cushion cover at the beginning of summer, from scrap pieces of linen, and as I still had some of the linen left, I intended to make more. I admit I did bend the “no new projects” rule with this one. All three cushion covers are made from greyish lavender heavy linen, and all are embroidered using the same shade of floss, but they are all different. Diversity and uniformity in one; that’s what happens when I get bored with making the same thing over and over.

The first one is pieced from smaller scraps, and every piece of the front has been treated differently. One is left plain; another has two rows of hemstitching, and the third small embroidered flowers. 

The second (which did not have to be pieced) has a simple square in cross stitches, with a little detail in the corners.

The third is not pieced either, but unlike the others it opens in front. I covered buttons with the same linen, and embroidered them. 

Not the most interesting of sewing related posts perhaps, but beautifying ones home is important, so some time has to go to that. And now you know I’m still alive :)

Varberg 2012

It’s been a while since last I posted, but I’ve been rather busy. At 1 August we’ll be moving to another city, as Tobias got accepted to the education we hoped and prayed for! We have found an apartment, and are looking forward to a larger kitchen (the one we have now is tiny), not having to carry the pram to the third floor, and a second bedroom, which will be used as a study, as B sleeps in our room. With luck we might even get a proper winter there, as it’s a bit farther north, and not right by the sea, as the city where we live now. We love it here, but change of scenes for a while is not a bad thing. We’ll only be there for less than a year and a half, as the latter part of the education will be given in this part of the country, when we’ll have to move again. Anyway, with all of our planning, hoping, looking for a new home and waiting for acceptance to university, as well as being surrounded by boxes in various stages of packing, I’ve not really been in the mood for writing until now. Now that I am writing, I once again find that I have a harder time expressing myself than before. I blame it on nursing brain; some days I feel truly stupid.

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Two weeks ago we attended the annual medieval days at Varberg fortress again. As usual, it was fun (and as usual, not very much of interest to buy for serious reenactors), and I was in a much better mood than I was in Lund. B was on his best behaviour (but then, he’s usually an angel), we only had to stop once to nurse him on the way there, and not at all on the way home, as he slept the whole time. He charmed everyone, and made very good advertising for babies.

On Friday evening as we made camp, heavy, dark clouds came in from the sea, but we moved quickly, and managed to have all the tents up when the rain came. 

 Picture by Vix

Our family didn’t sleep in the tents this time, it did take a rather heavy toll in Lund, and right now, it’s not worth it. We stayed at a hostel, situated in what used to be a jail, right outside the walls of the fortress. Luckily, our cell (No 19) had a window you could actually look out of; most cells had nothing but a tiny little thing close to the ceiling. 

Despite the not too happy history of the place, it was the nicest hostel I’ve ever stayed in, where they had worked with the original purpose, of the place when it came to decoration, and not against it, with a good looking room, fresh bathrooms and a tolerable kitchen.

Saturday was perfect for wearing layers of wool, as it was chilly, and cloudy, even misty from time to time. It was very pleasant. Good thing I’d made warm clothes for B, he was happy and toasty the whole day. I also found that double layers of dresses come in handy as an improvised blanket when your child falls asleep. 

 Picture by Peter

Sunday on the other hand was hot and sunny, but except for the children who were stripped down to their linen shirts and shifts, of course we all stayed in our wool clothes, though not with overdresses, hoods and the like. We and the parents of the other baby desperately tried to find some place cool and shady for our little ones.

One of my sisters was with us, and she slept in the women’s tent up at the camp. We brought her our large straw mattress, as B and I would use it during the days. She was so helpful, taking care of B a lot so I could rest my back. Now, she’s as fond of babies as I ever was, so I’m sure she didn’t feel it a burden, still, I’m grateful. 

I had fun, dressing her hair in plaited coils over the ears, in a very fashionable 14^th century way. I think she looked very nice, having hair long and thick enough not to make the coils look too thin.

I believe that, for me, the single best experience of the weekend (apart from hanging out with our friends), was churning butter. I’ve never done it with a proper churn before, and it was brilliant! Too bad B became hungry before I could finish it, and help in washing and salting it, but you can’t have everything. B liked the churning as well, and wanted to chew the staff.   

Picture by Peter

 

Tobias was otherwise the one upholding the family honour of putting in a lot of work in camp related chores, churning butter was almost the only work I did, besides tending B .

He also took part in the wrestling lecture, and looked great (not that you can see it in this picture...), but got slightly bruised. You can read more about the wrestling, and see more pictures here.

Picture by Peter

I held one of the lectures on 14^th century dress, and feel I made a bit of a pig’s ear out of it. Nursing brain and a bored, slightly fussy baby (who was being entertained by Daddy, but sometimes, Mummy is the one to be with) was the main reason for it I believe, I forgot half of what I’d planned to say, and jumbled the rest. Ah well, one can’t always be on top of things. 

The food was interesting at worst and really good at best. I believe my favourite was the salmon. I believe a well documented post on that will show up here.

Even though I had fun, it was tiring, and I’m glad it was our last event of the season. Hopefully it’ll be easier next year. Sure, B will likely be running around all over the place, and require constant watching over, but I’ll not have to carry him all the time, and he won’t have to nap as often (which can be a bit tricky with the sounds of so many people moving around the tents all day). Sadly, this particular event will not take place next year, as the fortress will be closed for renovation. We hope it’ll be brought back when it opens again.

I have a few ideas for future posts, but what with the move and all, I’m not sure when I’ll have the time and energy for that, so don’t wonder if the blog is silent for a while.I've not stopped blogging :)